March 31, 2002

Coffee, Sir ?

For instance, when you ask for coffee at Zipangu,
a new Japanese restaurant in Greenwich Village,
reality is twisted a bit. The waiter comes to the
table bearing what appears to be a chemistry set.

There is a steel stand supporting a stack of glass
flasks. The round bottom flask is filled with water;
in the top are coffee grounds. A busboy comes
by to place a large wick underneath and lights it.

I felt we should be wearing safety goggles.

Soon, the water starts boiling, the busboy hurries
by to blow out the flame, and then — whoosh! —
the water is sucked up into the coffee grounds.

A few seconds later, it all begins shooting back
down into the round flask. For a second you
pause to wonder why a Japanese restaurant
is serving coffee at all, but the show is so
great, who cares?

AMANDA HESSER.

Compare to Starbuck Utopia

.

Posted by dc at March 31, 2002 01:08 PM
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